Robert OToole Photography
  • Technical
  • Jan31

    3 Comments

    Quick Release Clamp Design Shootout

    What is the best QR clamp design for the nature / wildlife photographer?

    Over the last six months I have received so many questions about various Quick Release clamp designs I decided closely examine the two most common designs, standard knob style and lever style. Some nature photographers have blogged that one style being better than another so its time to look at the facts so you can decide for yourself.

    Since my current head of choice is the Jobu Design JR 3 gimbal head I thought I would start by asking Jobu for more details on their clamp designs and the pros and cons of the knob vs lever clamp types.

    Why does Jobu choose a knob type QR clamp design over a lever QR style clamp?

    From Jobu Design:

    1.       We do not use quick release lever style clamps on our gimbal heads. From  empirical testing and physical samples, I can 100% assure you that there is not enough consistency in the Arca-Swiss style of plates to

    guarantee a secure fit with every brand on the market. For customers holding thousands of dollars of camera equipment on our heads we cannot guarantee fit against other manufacturer’s tolerances in order to secure an adequate clamping force. We have tested samples from Arca-Swiss, Wimberley, Kirk, Markins, Kiwi, Foto-Pro, and dozens of no-name manufacturers, and they are all different. Arca-Swiss is a STYLE, not a STANDARD.

    2.       Our quick releases open/close much further than our competitor’s clamps to take up the slack of other manufacturers tolerances. We have twice as much clamping tolerance as most other quick releases on the market.

    3.       Quick release levers are prone to snag on branches, bags and clothing and possibly release, making them a liability in the field.

    4.       Our standard knobs such as the one on the JR 3 are very fast to open/close (faster than the lobed design on the our Pro head) and the size is appropriate for clamping pressure on small to medium telephoto lenses. Increasing the size may cause binding due to the ability to use excessive torque. We use a larger knob on the Pro head to allow stronger pressure for appropriate clamping strength, but it is a slower mechanism.

    5.       Our knobs are made from high-grade aluminum by a US manufacturer in a controlled environment. They can take a bashing, beating and continue to function day in and out.

    6.       We sell something like 5000+ of these knobs on various products per year. We have NEVER had a complaint about clamp design, not ONE. This is quite a testimonial.

    Example

    Jobu Design BWG-J3K Jobu Jr.3 Gimbal head clamp close up. For more information on this head see my JR 3 post: http://www.robertotoole.com/2011/07/07/jobu_jr3_gimbal_head/

    One of Jobu’s points about the varying Arca-Swiss style plate sizes on the market is interesting, lets look at the the sizes of some common QR plates that you might even be using. All measurements are thickness (or height) x width.

    Wimberley A = 9 x 38mm
    Wimberley B = 9 x 38mm
    4th generation A = 7.5 x 37mm
    4th generation B = 9 x 38mm
    Jobu A = 9 x 38mm
    Jobu B = 9 x 38mm
    Kirk = 8 x 37mm

    Looking at the above it looks like 9 x 38 mm is the most common size but some of the differences in plate dimensions are surprising, especially on two plates from 4th Generation. This is especially strange since 4th Generation uses non adjusting lever type QR clamps.

    Example

    4th Generation designs M3.5a quick release lever type clamp. This is an older example but I believe the 3.6 clamp design is unchanged.

    Advantages and disadvantages

    Knob clamp +
    Zero chance of accidental opening
    Lower cost due to fact that it is common
    Many different designs are available from many different manufacturers
    Never needs any adjustment for different QR plates

    Knob clamp -
    Slower to open and close vs lever style clamp but no adjustment is ever necessary

    Lever clamp +
    Quicker to open and close vs knob designs but needs careful set up and adjustment for different QR plates

    Lever clamp -
    Possible accidental release is always possible
    Higher expense due to the fact that there are less brands of lever QR clamps
    Adjustments are necessary for different QR plates to guarantee a secure fit

    My thoughts

    In my personal experience the lever QR clamps can be quicker to close and open but the down side to this speed is the adjustment necessary to get a real safe and secure fit with your lens plate. In the last 5 years of using lever QR clamps out in the field I have adjusted dozens and dozens of clamps for photographers to fit the different QR plate brands. Many time I have had to adjust a brand new head right out of the box. I have also had to adjustment a few famous photographer’s lever QR clamp heads so they clamped properly. Its a shame that the lever QR clamp head dealers and manufacturers are not honest with buyers about this. In fact one Mongoose dealer has stooped so low as to spread false rumors about the Jobu Jr 3 clamps not to mention failing to inform customers about the drawbacks to the QR lever clamps they sell.

    My personal preference

    Over the years I have used different Arca Swiss style quick release clamps and plates since the 1990s. I have used both knob type and lever clamps over the last 10 years including Wimberley I, Wimberley II, and Mongoose side mount lever QR heads. Currently I use Jobu gimbal heads with standard screw knob clamps and don’t see any reason to ever go back to a lever QR clamp even thought they can be faster to open and close. I prefer the lower cost, extra security and lack of adjustment needed with the standard screw knob clamp designs.

    I hope this information helps you understand the differences in the various head designs so you can make the best decision next time you are in the market for a new head.

    All content (including text, design, photos, layout, and graphics) are copyright © 2011 Robert OToole. All rights reserved.

  • Jan13

    3 Comments

    Example

    A Wildlife Photographers View of the Nikon D4

    Finally after 5 solid years Nikon has announced a successor to the D3. From a wildlife photographer’s perspective the the D4 looks impressive, and most importantly it looks like Nikon seems to have made an extensive series of small improvements and not a lot of big changes for still photographers. In other words it looks like they did not make any huge mistakes as Canon has done over the last few years with their pro cameras. Thankfully Nikon has aimed for it’s professional user-base and tried to improve the D3S which was probably one of the best, if not the best DSLR ever made.

    Upgrades

    Note: I have not had a chance to use the camera yet so all of this info is based on Nikon supplied info. If you would like to find out more of see Nikon’s brochure see the bottom of this post for links.

    Some of the more important  D4 photo shooting specs are a new higher-resolution 16.2MP full-frame CMOS sensor and the ability to shoot at 10 frames per second with AF. Most importantly the continuous shooting ability has been increased from 43 shots with the D3S to 97 NEF on a CF card and 105 NEF files with the new XQD card. Limited RAW file continuous shooting capability has always been a problem for action photographers since the first DSLR.

    Nikon reports that the  new Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX AF system in the D4 has improved low light ability. A new 1005 pixel AE metering sensor has been replaced a new design with 91,000 pixels. The 3D tracking performance of this new color matrix metering has reportedly been dramatically improved. This is huge since I feel that the current Nikon AF system is the best AF system I have ever used. It is comforting  to see that Nikon has confirmed autofocus at f8 so super-telephoto NIKKOR users can use 1.7X and 2.0X teleconverters. Nikon has always had this capability on pro and pro-sumer cameras but new cameras like the Canon EOS-1DX  have dropped this capability. This is a very important issue for a lot of people including me.

    The D4 a lot of new interesting capabilities with the new WT-5 Wireless Transmitter. This will allow the user to log into your camera with a laptop, tablet or smartphone and will have access to a camera control panel and live view feed with a standard web browser.

    The Real Challenge

    Image quality is really most important and I think it is the D4’s biggest challenge. I feel that the Nikon D3S is the closest thing to the perfect camera on the market right now. Nikon promises that the D4 will offer even better image quality and even better low light performance. The D3S low light high ISO performance was almost unbelievable. For an example of what kind of file the D3S can produce, look at the image below.

    Example

    Dalmatian Pelican at 25,600 ISO, Greece, 2011. Nikon D3S with Sigma 50-500mm OS @ 340mm at 1/8000 F14, ISO 25,600. image copyright © 2012 Robert OToole.

    This is the kind of image quality the D4 has to beat. The image made at an astounding 25,600 ISO is almost completely noise free. For the record no noise reduction or blurring has been applied, yes the D3S is that good!

    I would be surprised if the D4 will be able to surpass the IQ of the D3S at high ISO but if it can at least match it the D4 will be worth the 3 year wait.

    Things Missing From the D4

    Enough resolution to make the D4 the first true dual mode camera. Rumors have been circulation for years that the D4 would offer high full frame resolution and a 12-14 MP 1.5x crop mode with a higher frame rate. This would be the ultimate camera for action and outdoor photographers. Full frame and a faster 1.5x mode when you need extra speed and reach. The D4 offers more resolution but it looks like it will only provide about 6-7 MP in crop mode. Maybe next time? D800 maybe?

    No removable viewfinder, I still miss this feature from the film SLR pro camera era.

    No built in incident meter.

    No removable upgradable sensor.

    No removable low pass filter.

    No built in RAID SSD hard drive with thunderbolt connector for downloading.

    What I Do Not Like About the D4

    Nikon made a mistake dropping the AF-Mode selector on the back of the camera and replacing it with the the same AF mode / AF manual mode combination switch from the D7000. All of the online reviews I have read claim that this change is an improvement, for me its a bad move for photographers. Nikon went from a brilliant AF-Mode switch that only took a single finger to operate without even looking.  The D4 / D7000 design uses an outer collar that rotates to select auto or manual focus, and selects the AF mode when the center of the selector is pressed while the command dial is rotated. Honestly almost all D7000 owners I have met dont even know how to use the combo switch. I don’t even have my D4 ordered yet but I already miss old style AF-Mode switch.

    At least they didn’t touch the AF-On button!

    D4 Links

    Nikon D4 brochure link:

    http://www.nikonusa.com/en_US/o/QD8q_b3vH8Re-n_CPUtpjBl-qbE/PDF/D4_brochure.pdf

    More Nikon D4 info:

    http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/nikon-d4/nikon-d4A.HTM

    http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-11673-12259

    All content (including text, design, photos, layout, and graphics) are copyright © 2011 Robert OToole. All rights reserved.

  • Dec30

    1 Comment

    Imagine if there was an exposure mode that would enable you to set both the aperture and the shutter speed and the camera will automatically change a third variable to adjust the exposure. This would be like having simultaneous aperture and shutter priority (via manual mode) with auto exposure. This mode is called auto ISO and when used in manual mode I don’t see any reason to use aperture or shutter priority. The power of auto ISO in manual is that you can set the both the aperture and shutter speed and the camera will set the ISO value for a proper exposure.

    For the record I still use straight manual mode for 90% of my photography (where I have to set the ISO manually) but when conditions call for auto exposure I enable auto ISO in manual mode. With this combination enabled the camera leaves the shutter speed and aperture up to you and only adjusts the ISO value. Although technically you can also use auto ISO in aperture or shutter priority modes, I find auto ISO in manual to be the most powerful combination.

    Example

    Single Sandhill crane landing, Northern Farm Field, Bosque Del Apache, New Mexico. NIKON D300s and AF-S Nikkor 500mm f/4G ED VR lens + TC-14E 1.4x II,1/1600th sec at f5.6, manual mode, metering on zero, Auto ISO. Image Copyright 2011 Robert OToole Photography.
    Earlier this month at Bosque when the lighting conditions where changing rapidly used auto ISO in manual mode with great results. This gave me the freedom to concentrate on making sharp full frame images of cranes with all legs and wingtips intact and not having to worry about changing settings up and down when the light levels changed.

    Instead of getting caught up discussing how one auto mode is better than another think about how auto ISO can be a useful tool. Manual mode allows you to have complete control over the aperture, shutter speed and ISO but the camera will not compensate for any changes in light. This can be a huge problem in rapidly changing conditions since the user will not have enough time to adjust the settings back and forth to compensate. Enabling auto ISO in manual mode will allow you to use the exact settings you require and at the same time the camera will compensate instantly for any changes in light so you can concentrate on other important things like autofocus, timing, and composition. Some cameras (Nikon D300S, D700, D3S, and D3S) even allow you to fine tune the results with exposure exposure compensation in manual mode with auto ISO enabled.

    Would auto ISO be useful for me?

    The answer depends on the brand and camera model you use. The best way to find out is to test auto ISO with your own camera in different modes with different settings and see which combination gives you the best results. Current Nikon cameras, D300s, D700, D3S, and D3X offer manual mode with auto ISO, called ISO Sensitivity Auto Control, with adjustable ISO limits and exposure compensation. This means you can set the ideal shutter speed and aperture and the camera will set the ISO level with EC available at anytime to fine tune the results. Canon EOS-1D MK IV and 7D bodies feature auto ISO in manual mode with adjustable ISO limits. Although the Canon EOS 5D MKII does have an auto ISO mode the features are very limited in the auto modes and it is not available at all in manual mode. Unfortunately at this time no Canon camera will allow you to use exposure compensation in manual mode with auto ISO enabled. The recently announced EOS-1D X is rumored to feature auto ISO options similar to the MK IV, hopefully with the addition of exposure compensation. There has been a lot of discussion online about Canon adding EC with auto ISO and hopefully Canon will decide to include this feature in the future.

    Nikon photographers that would like to learn more about auto ISO and a lot of other professional techniques more should pick up my Nikon DSLR User’s Guide for the D300s/D700/D3S/D3x is available at the Birds As Art online store:
    https://store.birdsasart.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=329

    If you are in the market for a new DSLR and auto ISO is important to you it would be best to test all of the current cameras available right now from Canon and Nikon before you actually make your camera purchase.

    Be sure to leave a comment if you have any auto ISO tips or questions you would like to share.